So Wednesday saw most of the day spent in Salvador, before a 6.30 pick up for a lift to the airport. We had, due to the sheer expense of a triple room, booked a double room in the hotel where we had been since Sunday afternoon, with me playing 'the third man' and relying on the reception not having a clue I had never actually checked into the hotel. So when we put our bags into the office for safekeeping for the day on checking out, Sanj pretended to have two cases while I waited outside taking in the morning scene on the beach. Two football matches - and the sand looked a nightmare to play on, being dry and rutted - and a lot of surfers. Strangely no females at all. Still, it was a mix of cloud and sun and a working day.
We caught a cab back to the old town of Pelourinho, from where we had headed to the stadium on Monday to catch our game in Salvador. Adam had failed to shift six tickets for France v Switzerland through the hotel reception, although good news earlier, when this cursed notebook I am using finally got through to the FIFA ticketing account on their website, was that six of the nine tickets I had returned for resale (including three x France/Switzerland) had been snapped up. We approached potential buyers in the old town. Fans of France, Switzerland, some Italians and some English speaking visitors. In the end we were pointed to a tour agency that were selling tickets themselves. After a bit of negotiation Adam accepted approximately half the face value just to get something for them. There would have been zero chance of shifting them once we left Salvador later in the day, so it was a case of something rather than nothing. Sanj and I did try to persuade him it was worth a walk to the stadium first to see if there was anyone hanging about in search of spares, but he prefered to get the matter resolved so we could enjoy the rest of the afternoon.
We settled into a pizzeria for lunch. It was empty apart from the family that ran it having their own lunch. So we were slap bang in front of a television to watch Holland play Australia. What a cracking game that was, although Tim Cahill did what seems to have become a habit by getting suspended before his country have completed all of their matches. It mattered not, as their final group game is now meaningless - for both sides as it would transpire - and we will probably see many an unused squad player get a run out. Holland continue to impress. Australia's opening goal was unstoppable and the penalty that led to their second was a joke. No intent whatsoever. I do get the feeling that the Dutch may be peaking a little early though. Nevertheless, there is a constant goal threat from their attacking players and one imagines all their games will see a number of goals. They are certainly providing great entertainment. Robin van Persie seems to have recaptured his form under Louis van Gaal's management, which is ominous for the Premier League next season.
We headed back to the hotel area for the Spain v Chile match. The taxi driver that took us was a character. He might have taken us a slightly long way, although it could have been a ploy to avoid traffic. The fare was 30 real as opposed to the 25 spent returning from the match on Monday. However, we did see some incredible sculptures of large rotund naked females which I had not spotted before, that made the route taken worthwhille. Think Beryl Cook paintings but sexy. I've been away from home for too long already... The driver had Careless Whisper by George Michael on his CD player and he and Adam were duetting in the front seats to much amusement.
We settled in a bar to catch Spain v Chile, another cracking match. The quality of games we are witnessing is probably on a par with Mexico 86, which was the last time I can remember such a high ratio of entertaining encounters at a World Cup. Santi Cazorla got a run out, but too late in proceedings to save his side from elimnation. It seems that holders these days quite often disappoint. France in 2002, Italy in 2010, and now Spain - all eliminated in the group phase. Whether tikka-takka is officially dead is a matter of conjecture - let's see what Luis Enrique does next season at Barcelona - howevver, it was quite a surprise to see Xavi dropped and equally significantly, make no appearance from the bench. Maybe there has been a fallout with Del Bosque, I am really not keeping up with the news over here.
Chile seemed to show the greater desire, and were very well backed in the stadium. I think this might be a case of Spain playing two teams whose fans made an atmosphere that created a feeling they were very much the away side. The Spanish supporters do not travel in great number. Spain did create a few chances due to sheer pressure, but ultimately, I felt Chile deserved their win. People were saying they would be difficult opposition before the tournament started and so it proved. It's natural that South American teams are going to be stronger in their own territory, which does not bode well for England against Uruguay, the latter beaten by a central American team in their first outing. Apparently Uruguay will have around 20,000 fans in the stadium, I would guess they will outnumber the English support by about four to one.
Lillian, who picked us up when we arrrived from the airport, offered to do the return trip, which was good of her. She warned us the traffic would be horrendous, and she was right enough there. I guess the locals just get used to it, but there is no doubt that traffic is a significant issue here. And we think we have it bad in London. I am not convinced I have seen a single roundabout on my travels so far, and I wonder if this might assist matters in places. Certainly, something needs to be done as I can't see the situation improving. I guess it is just a consequence of the huge population and the reality that public transport tends to be buses which use the same road space. There are train networks within some of the cities, although it was enlightening to be told by Lillian that a track to take a train that stopped at the stadium had been 15 years in construction and was completed about a day before the first World Cup game in Salvador. She was of the opinion that it goes from nowhere to nowhere, so might not be heavily used anyway. Her work is the study of what exhaust gases from road vehicles do to the atmosphere. Ironic really.
As a way of thanks we gave her our three spare tickets for the fourth of five matches Salvador would host. Bosnia v Iran was booked before the draw was made and it has not sold out from FIFA. So zero chance of re-selling those through the FIFA resale process and the agent who bought the France v Switzerland tickets was not interested in them. I think it's what you call a buyer's market for that game. Lillian though, was thankful for the opportunity to see a game in the stadium, so she will take a couple of friends and the seats will be used.
At the airport, we caught the second half of Croatia's demolition of what looks like a pretty poor Cameroon side. There was a huge screen showing the match in the departure lounge. I love it that football fans are so well catered for here. What a contrast to a place like Japan 12 years ago. The African side's capitulation suggests that Brazil should win their group on goal difference even if Mexico beat Croatia. One suspects Holland v Chile might prove a tasty match as one assumes both will be keen to win so as to avoid Brazil in the last 16 round. However, the Brazil v Cameroon match does take place afterwards, so there is no 100% guarantee that the winners would avoid the host country. I'd say it was a 90% chance though. African teams have not fared too well at the tournament so far. Ivory Coast look the best bet to qualify, but I would not put money on an African side making the last four for the first time ever. Given the number of players that have been successful at club level, it is something of a surprise that an African country has never got close to winning the World Cup over the last 20 years. Then again, neither have England...
The flight to Sao Paulo was a two and a half hour job. It's a huge place, apparently the largest in the southern hemisphere, let alone Brazil, with close to 12 million inhabitants, although I have seen different figures, so who knows. Probably not even the authorities. Reputedly, also a fairly dangerous place. It looked grim on the lengthy taxi ride to our hotel, although after midnight is never the best time to judge somewhere you have never seen before. It was 16 degrees and had been raining. We arrived at our hotel and a doorman come security guard came out to greet us . We were told it would be dangerous to go out after dark in the local area, although a good tip for our trip to the stadium for the match was that a metro system is quite safe and a taxi ride from the hotel to the local station (a direct line to the stadium) is quick and easy. So at least we will not have to battle traffic for once.
Waking up on Thursday morning, it was raining and no warmer than our arrival. The room at the hotel is excellent and it is as well we are booked for three people as there is no chance of bunking in here, given the security. I am sure there are nicer areas of Sao Paulo, so I am not writing the place off, just stating that you wouldn't stay where we are for the scenery. Sanj and I took a stroll to a bar so he could buy some cigarettes and it was obvious that the place is littered with characters you would not choose to have a conversation with, even if you could speak the language. We are only here to catch an England game, and off to Recife on a 3am flight, 12 hours after the match finishes. We will spend some time in a safer area after the match, getting something to eat and whiling away the time, watching the final game of the day between Japan and Greece. Well, maybe half watching. It's the type of game I would probably need to place a bet on to feel a keen sense of interest. Maybe we won't be in the mood for football at all should England lose. Of course, there is still a mathematical chance of progress if Italy beat Costa Rica in Recife tomorrow, and consequently beat Uruguay in their final match. That's some serious straw clutching though. England need to at least draw to give themselves any hope. I have to admit, I am not optimistic, but this is a World Cup which has surprised me more than once so far, so let's get to the game and see.
I suspect I might not be able to post again until after I have attended Italy v Costa Rica tomorrow, and even then, it might not be until I reach Manaus. But there may be an opportunity if I can get a wifi connection at the airport while we are waiting for our 3am flight.