Kevin Whitcher
Just over 24 hours in Recife neared its end with our getting up at 5.30 to make a flight to Manaus that departed just after 8am. The hotel room we had used was pretty poor, but at least they allowed us to check in on arrival a good few hours before we were entitled to, so I for one am not going to quibble. At the airport, the tournament's official programme was on sale at a bookstore. Sanj had seen them on sale in one other place - a bookstore in a shopping centre in Salvador - and bought one. That was a Portuguese language edition. Here, we had the choice of that or English. The version I bought is probably on sale back in WH Smiths in the UK, but at least I can read the thing. It is still very odd that the programme is not on sale at the official merchandise stalls at the stadium. I am sure they would sell more to fans who might not think to seek one out in bookstores over here.
The flight we took had two stops before Manaus. First, Fortaleza - where many of the passengers left us, with Germany playing Ghana there only hours later. The plane was filled with others replacing them, demonstrating how flights here are in serious demand. Certainly it is pretty much the only way to get around once you start heading inland. The next stop was a place called Belem which I think marks the beginning of the rainforested area, although don't quote me on that. Another swapover of passengers before the final leg of our journey to Manaus, where everyone got off. There were already passengers on the plane when we boarded at Recife, so I have no idea where the flight began its route.
The taxi we took to the hotel had a driver who spoke good English, and was quite helpful. Our hotel was in an industrial area of the city. Not too much around. However, on arrival, even though I had paid in advance, there was a problem. No rooms. Eventually, we discovered that they had lost some due to some reason that was not clear, but later concluded they were sold on the basis or a new wing being constructed, which simply wasn't ready in time. Fortunately, they had arranged for us to stay at a superior sister hotel nearer the centre and the stadium. They gave us a free buffet lunch and arranged a taxi to the alternative hotel.
Before making the move, after eating we watched the first half of Germany v Ghana. News from back home about the earlier Argentina v Iran game demonstrated that, at this stage, points mean so much more than performance. Apparently Iran were worth at least a draw and might have even won the game. So, yes, it is good to see some fantastic football, but really, it matters not a jot as far as identifying the likely winners goes. What does count is good fortune with refereeing decisions, carving out results and ensuring that your best players come up with a moment that makes the difference. So whereas Rooney missed three great chances out of four against Uruguay, Suarez gets two opportunities and converts both. Messi has scored two goals that have won two matches with his individual brilliance.
We took our taxi at half time, and the driver had a tablet TV built into his dashboard. Just as well, as we met horrendous traffic. As it turned out, four lanes of a busy city centre road were narrowed down to one because the hotel where the USA team were staying had its coach parked in such a way that it needed to take up some lanes on the road. I guess it was related to security, but it meant our travelling a distance of 300 yards in about 30 minutes. The first three goals of the Germany v Ghana game were watched in the cab. The area we were staying in looked ok to me, although we were advised not to go wandering after 10pm.
We checked in. It's a high quality hotel (we were transferred from a Novotel to a Mercure), probably the best we have stayed in. Adam had gone to the expense of a room of his own when we booked the original one, so Sanj and I are sharing. We might only be here for two nights as they will be full for our final two nights in Manaus, meaning a transfer back to the original hotel where presumably there will be room for us. We are on the tenth floor with a decent view out of floor to ceiling windows. The Germany match finished while we were checking in, which took a while as they had to arrange for an extra bed to be put in the room Sanj and I were sharing as we had requested twin single beds rather than a double. The 2-2 result showed that one swallow does not make a summer. Germany looked far less effective than when we had seen them play Portugal, but the chances are a draw in their final group game v USA will see them qualify. I am certain they will get through, but the battle to join them is fascinating. We are in Manaus to see Portugal play USA.
We settled into the rooms and enjoyed excellent wifi reception for a change. Nigeria v Bosnia was on, but I would be lying if I claimed to be paying too much attention. If Iran can beat Bosnia in their final group game, they might qualify at Nigeria's expense. On the basis of their displays so far, it would appear they might deserve to.
We caught a taxi to the area where the Manaus fan park is based. We had no intention of going in, and with the matches of the day finished, there would be no point anyway. However, the thinking was that it would be situated in a safe area where we could explore a bit. Manaus is an hour behind most of the venue cities here, so the games finish by 2pm, 5pm and 8pm. The fan park was situated in what I would describe as a seafront area - except, substitute the Amazon for the sea. A promenade, a long stretch of sandy beach on which volleyball and soccer were being played, illuminated by lights. And with the temperatures in the high 20s even after 9pm at night, most everybody walking along in shorts and vests. The population up here is mixed, but with a greater amount of what I would describe as having a slightly more native Indian look. There were more black Brazilians in Salvador and Recife, an obvious consequence of slaves being brought to that area in greater number than the south hundreds of years ago.
We sat down at an open air food and drink stall to have something to quench our thirsts. Sanj was the only one wearing shorts and suffered a couple of mosquito bites, although we all have our Malerone tablets and are taking them as instructed. Didn't stop the poor sod having a bit of a scratching session though. I have been told that the local mosquitos ignore the insect repellent that is sold in the UK. I haven't brought any over but will try to buy some locally. Maybe the stuff they sell here might be more effective.
The cab out to the area caught some heavy traffic and cost 45 reals. Catching one back to the hotel, I was really drowsy and fell asleep in the front seat. Adam had a map of the area and when we went past the airport, he realised the driver was taking the p*ss. We can't speak Portuguese but made our protest when the meter got to 65 reals by the time of our arrival at the hotel, pointing to the meter and saying 45. But what can you do? I guess learn the Portuguese for 'direct route, not the long way' when you enter the cab. We were fleeced for £6 at the end of the day. We'll get over it.
We were all shattered and looked forward to a good night's sleep with a decent lie-in.
