Kevin Whitcher
Saturday morning. Seven stadiums down, and three to go. Began the day in Toulouse, a couple of hours drive from Bordeaux. Checked out the location of my hotel and it was a satellite town on the south side of the city, the new stadium to the north. Last time I was here in 1998, the ground was very near the centre, surrounded by old residential buildings. It had a definite character with arches behind the stands, but in truth the views weren’t great as the rake on the stands was not very steep.
Anyway, working out my timing, I realised there was no point in checking in and then trying to get to the stadium, better to head as near as I could and walk the remainder. On google maps I spotted at IKEA store maybe a kilometre or so from the stadium, and decided to head for that. I got past one police checkpoint that seemed to be stopping anyone that looked like a football fan, and found the car park of Sweden’s favourite store. Two lackeys were on patrol. One approached me. Although my French is pretty hopeless, I worked out he was asking if I was there to use the store. ‘Oui oui’ I responded without hesitation. I mean, what else would I be doing there? I then went through the pantomime of entering the store – although it looked like a collection depot rather than anywhere you could actually browse. Maybe there was another bit somewhere else. Anyway, I then had to sneak out the main car park entrance – the only way I could see to get out – and hope I wasn’t spotted. I didn’t hear anything, so job done.
I followed the numerous Irish and Belgian fans that were walking in the direction of the stadium. We passed a nice lake and dozens of supporters relieving themselves on the grass that surrounded it. The Irish like a drink and the Belgians like a drink, and the atmosphere was predictably fine. The stadium was not visible until you got quite close to it, partly because the pitch is sunken into the ground. I liked the design of it a lot, both inside and outside. The stands seem to be supported by a large number of needle like white struts that shoot up like trees in a forest, with the underside of the stands visible, but looking very white and new. Inside, it is a simple two tier job, but very much a football stadium in feel.
I was in a neutral section next to the Irish fans behind one of the goals. In the lower tier, but a fair way back so had an excellent view. The sun was shining brightly heavy rain had threatened in the build up to the game. Belgium attacked the end I was in during the first half and it seemed obvious they were more likely to open the scoring. Martin O’Neill’s side had trouble putting any seriously threatening attacks together, and in fairness, they don't seem to have the quality of player they did in Jack Charlton’s heyday. Then again, in those days, it seems that actually being Irish was not considered a vital pre-requisite to represent the country.
Next to the commentary and press box area in each stadium there are normally a good number of seats reserved for the media who are carrying out pre and post game duties, such as interviews and the like. I spotted some empty seats up there and was able to take one of them for the second half, my thinking being that most of the action was going to be at the other end and I’d have a better view of it. How right I was. Belgium handed the Republic a football lesson in the second half of the match. There performance was much improved on that seen against Italy in Lyon, although in truth, the defence they were up against in Bordeaux did not compare.
With this being a 3pm kick off, I was in no rush to get to my hotel for the night so took the direct route through the centre of the city to reach it. It is, like Toulouse, a very picturesque place. The whole of south west France has a lot to recommend it. At one point, on a bus lane inside of me, the UEFA police escorted limos sped past. And I thought to myself, the reason this tournament is here is because of Michel Platini doing what was required to ensure it was during his time as president of UEFA. And he isn’t allowed in the stadiums to watch it. Serves the corrupt sod right! He was a big part of France’s triumph here in 1984, the main reason in fact. But he is far from celebrated now. It’s good that these villains are being exposed after years of having their snouts in the trough.
I watched the late game between Portugal and Austria, drifting in and out of sleep during the second half. Fatigue does for you in the end. I did awake at the noise from the TV of Ronaldo’s penalty hitting the post. Let’s face it, the golden boy has no-one to blame but himself if Portugal do not get out of the group, but can you really see them failing to beat Hungary? Even then, they’d probably make it through as a third place team. Still, all good fun to watch, if you can stay awake for it!
The hotel in Bordeaux was from the same chain as the one I stayed in the previous Saturday night in Marseille. It was more or less of Formula One standard, and the wifi was awful. Called ‘Stars’, it professes to be a two star hotel on the door. Still, when economy is your watchword. Two days break now, in the Haute-Garonne region south east of Toulouse, then a drive north to Lille for my final two matches. The day of arrival and England v Russia seems like half a lifetime ago now…
