A Gooner’s World Cup Diary – Part 2

Another report from the front line



A Gooner’s World Cup Diary – Part 2

Cape Town's Green Point stadium - Great venue, shame about the football


Great stadium, terrible game. Three Arsenal players lined up for France v Uruguay, and at times, the French looked as incapable of breaking down their opponents’ defence as, at times, the Gunners do. Diaby saw plenty of the ball but had minimal impact. Defensively, the French were not seriously tested often as Uruguay looked happy with the draw. So little to report on the soon to be departing Gallas or Bacary Sagna. Two very well drilled offside traps ruled the day.

The one thing I have concluded from the opening day’s matches is that none of the sides in this group are likely to play a significant role in the latter stages of the tournament. South Africa v Mexico was a far better game, in terms of action if not actual quality. Carlos Vela’s invovlement was hardly extensive, although he could have scored had he been as clinical as South Africa when they had their first gilt-edged opportunity and took the lead. I have to say the buzz in the country is far and above the euphoria of any in the previous four World Cup finals tournaments I have attended (starting in 1990 – I didn’t travel to the States in 1994, but have heard that – predictably – ‘soccer’ failed to set the country alight for the five weeks of the tournament).

My host Harv lives out in the Cape Town suburbs – Diep River to be precise – so I caught a train into the centre to catch the opening game on the box in a restaurant on the waterfront with Adam. It was absolutely rammed by the time it got into the centre, with many unable to get on as we stopped at stations further down the line. I was offered a swig of bacardi by one very drunk local who was having the time of his life. It was interesting to see that white South Africans are getting into the football with enthusiasm, as the game is normally attended by the black population and white faces in the crowds at domestic matches are a bit of a collectors’ item. There is a big thing here about the tournament being a unifying factor for the society, in the way that the 1995 Rugby World Cup was, and my initial impression is that it will be successful on that level. And for that reason alone, it must be hoped that the host nation retain an interest in the tournament as long as possible, even if there were signs in the first half of their opening match that it might only last a few minutes, with Mexico threatening an avalanche of goals.

We get into our seats in the Green Dolphin restaurant where we were to watch the South Africa game about two hours before kick off. The opening ceremony had just begun. It was a place where the entertainment was usually jazz music with a stage at one end. A television had been plonked on top of a grand piano, and I doubt any previous performer would have packed in as many people as the place hosted for the ‘Bafana’ game. We were ready for lunch, but were told by the waitress that it was drinks only, as the kitchen staff wanted to watch the game! This at 2pm with the game not starting until 4! What the hell, we had good seats, and everywhere was rammed. It was standing room only by the time the game started, including some standing on tables. Harv had given me a pack of meat snacks for the evening game – basically off cuts of different types of meet that you get through in similar fashion to a packet of crips or peanuts, but with a hell of a lot of chewing involved. It sufficed for my lunch, washed down by bottles of Castle beer featuring South African footballers on the labels.

Vuvuzelas were out in force on the train into town, in the city centre, and inside the restaurant. I have already become immune to them. I did not expect there to be so many at the France game as I believed there would be more visitors from abroad inside the actual stadium. However, this proved not to be the case, and the buzz continued. It does actually help the atmosphere as it was a hell of a dull game and without the sound these extended plastic horns provide, the event would have seemed very flat. The stadium reminded me a little of Arsenal’s, except the roof was shaped how it is supposed to be, allowing even those high up a complete view of the venue. Additionally, the middle tier is larger. What those watching on TV might not have seen were the swathe of empty seats in a very large VIP section running along most of the side where the players’ tunnel and the benches were. Aside from that, the attendance was healthy. I was intrigued by some members of the crowd. They didn’t look like football fans and were probably there to check out the new stadium and see what all the fuss was about. It’s a shame the match was such a let down on that front. It would have failed to convert the uninitiated.

Trains were running to the suburbs until three hours after the match finished, a special concession for the tournament. I caught one at 11.30 and it was as rammed as the one I caught in. Many had not attended the match at the stadium, but just flocked to the centre to see both games on screens, and be a part of the communal experience. This included many families, especially white ones, with young kids. The day was like one long party and there were a lot of shattered people at the end of it. There were a few hiccups in the matchday organisation, such as bottlenecks on exiting the stadium which should be addressed, but it’s a learning process. Having used public transport for the first match, I have to admit that from here on, I will be glad we are in a hire car, with the aim of using the ‘park and walk’ car parks, on average about 20 minutes walk from the stadiums.

I am writing this on an internal flight from Cape Town to Durban, where we hook up with our next host Ian. Harv was the perfect host. We had a braai (the South African version of the barbequeue) on the night of my arrival, where we were joined by fellow Gooner Warren. Harv’s missus was away, so it was fish and a toasted sandwich, without the traditional braai accompaniment of salad. Things are very traditional in these parts. No women = no salad! It was interesting to speak to Arsenal fans who rarely, if ever see the team in the flesh, and hear them echoing exactly the same concerns as I hear from those back home. Harv greeted me on arrival at the airport with a chant of ‘Wenger out!’ No need for one of those taxi cards with my name on it! The man can talk like a machine gun. It’s as if he verbalises every thought in his head, thinking fast to boot. Rather strangely, this doesn’t end up with him speaking a load of tosh, so he’s great company, with never a dull moment. It’s a shame I won’t be back in Cape Town for this tournament – frankly, it’s a bit too far away from the other stadiums to justify the trip - but I hope one day to return, just to do all the leisure stuff the area offers. My thanks to Harv for doing the hospitality honours, and indeed, getting up at 7 on a Saturday morning to get Adam and myself to the airport. My World Cup trip may have started with a poor game, but I will have good memories of my brief stay in Cape Town.

Another word about the enthusiasm for this tournament over here. The South African World Cup squad went on an open bus top parade in Johannesburg on Wednesday and the crowds were unbelievable. So big that the photographer for the national newspaper I bought (The Star) could not even get a shot of the bus, just the crowd. I guess he couldn’t get near enough to actually see anything. There are echoes of a similar pre-tournament event in Glasgow in 1978, when Ally McLeod’s squad did a circuit of Hampden Park before heading off to Argentina and the ignominy of defeat by Peru and a draw with Iran. At least though, there is little real assumption South Africa are going to win the tournament, unlike Scotland 32 years ago. However, if the hosts make it as far as the last eight, I expect another parade. It’s not an easy group they are in, but France and Uruguay sharing the spoils last night will help them.

Today’s a bit of a rest day once we reach Durban. We pick up the hire car and drive to Ian’s, where there will be another braai, followed by today’s three matches on the box. England v USA completes the evening, and we attend the Germany v Australia match on Sunday evening. We are off and running. One match down, fifteen to go...


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